Lets take a look at alternators.
DMCH and SpecialTAuto (or deloreanautoparts.com) both have alternators. Both will set you back a few bucks, but both have controversy following them, depending on if you want a super-overpowered model that has a record of failing, or if you want a direct bolt in replacement.
After doing some homework, I found that it is VERY possible to take an off the shelf alternator and install it into my car.
I spoke to a forum member, and ended up securing an alternator for a 1994 Chevy Lumina for $100.00 with a lifetime replacement warranty. That is great, because once installed, I can simply unplug it and swap it for a new one without any shipping or waiting! Since i'm planning on driving this car, it also makes it possible to replace it on the road, as long as there is an auto parts store. Note the serpentine pulley. You WILL need to swap your stock pulley.
First, I secured the alternator at Autozone (Part Number: DL1387-6-3.
The next item that had to be purchased was the pigtail connector to allow plug and play connecting.
I found this connector (part number 30707 if you order from Autozone.com)on ebay for $13.00 shipped! Sweet! I believe I found it using the same part number, because it is the number from Painless Wiring. It is a two wire hook-up, which you will need. I will explain it as I go on.
This is the stock Motorola alternator. The reason I replaced it was because i could hear the bearings squealing as it turned. A sure sign that failure was about to happen.
I strongly suggest having a second person help you. You CAN do this with one person, but sometimes it saves time from going from under the car to above the car... and vice versa... This is my friend Vic learning the ropes of D maintenance.Before we get going, lets get our tools ready:
1. Socket set with box-end wrenches
2. Needle nose pliars (always a good idea!)
3. RED locktite
4. (optional) air ratchet
5. Soldering iron with solder
6. Shrink wrap
7. Impact gun with impact sockets
8. Dremel with cut-off wheel (or a good hacksaw)
I tried to undo the electrical connections from the stock alternator first, but that failed due to corosion, and the fact the post was free spinning with every turn of the ratchet. I instead dropped the alternator so I could attack it easier. Finally the corosion broke loose and I was able to remove all electrical connections.
Here is a side by side comparison of the two alternators. The mount on the new one will have to be cut down slightly. I highly suggest a dremel with a cut off wheel, or a very good hacksaw.
After you lay the two alternators side by side and measure how much of the new alternator you need to cut down, mark the area off with either a marker or some tape. I used blue painter's tape because it is VERY visible. Wearing proper eye protection (flying shards of aluminum are no fun...) Cut through the extra piece off the new alternator.
Now, you can see the aftermath of the cut down: The removed portion that I cut off is in my hand.
The little nub at the lower left corner is easily removed by the cut off wheel. Takes less than 10 seconds to grind down, but you can see the results of the cutting. VERY easy to do.
Now, grab your impact gun and impact sockets and zap the V-pulley off of the original alternator, and zap the serpentine pulley (comes with a spacer and washer, btw...)off of each. To stop the pulley from free spinning, gently put a screw driver in between a fan blade and into the housing, then pull your trigger!
VERY important: See that little spacer to the left of the pulley? Well, place that BEHIND your new fan. Reason? When you tighten the nut, you will put force on the fan, causing it to flex into the housing. With the spacer there, you can torque it down alot further. Install your old V pulley, washer, and nut. Before zipping it down, add the Lock-Tite! You'll thank me later...
Here is a picture of the final product. Feel free to pull off the tape now... You will notice the NEW alternator does not have a rear bracket like the stock Motorola unit. If you notice your car's alternator mount, the part of the bracket your bolt goes though is significant, so don't worry.Now, you have to solder in your connector. VERY easy to do. First, the white wire gets attached to the single brown wire that was attached to the back of your old alternator. This goes to your battery light. The second wire on your pigtail is red with a little loop on it. Simply attach this loop onto the post on the alternator that you are attaching your wiring bundle to. Shrink wrap, and plug into your alternator! When you route your wires, make sure you are away from the exhaust manifold!!!
If you cut your alternator properly, it will line up PERFECTLY! Now, tension your belt so that you get 1" of flex with moderate pressure, and TEST!
Yep, my voltage gauge is now showing an actual charge! BTW, my gauge is all screwed up. I will explain the issue with that in a future installment of the blog. That's all there is to this upgrade. I can now replace my alternator ANYWHERE, including a junk yard, if i have to!
A very special thanks to:
- dmcman73 (steve) from DMCTalk.com for his great write up and instructions, plus for answering all my questions on the swap.
- Joe and Missy for loaning me their garage to do this on a very hot Saturday morning.
- Vic for being the second pair of hands.
